Bathing and Drying

Bathing is not washing, but a care ritual

Regardless of what type of coat an animal has, its care always starts with routine. Routine determines not only coat beauty, but also skin health, follicle strength, and the balance of the whole organism.

Bathing is one of the most important elements of this routine. But it is very important to understand: bathing is not only washing off dirt. It is a procedure that:

opens the skin,
allows it to breathe,
regulates sebaceous gland activity,
strengthens follicles,
stabilizes microflora,
prepares the coat for further protection.
It is a ritual that affects both aesthetics and biology.

Bathing frequency is not fashion, but logic

For show dogs, bathing is performed regularly – most often once per week. Why? Because their coat must constantly remain stable, elastic, and structurally prepared.

For pet dogs, bathing every four to six weeks is sufficient, taking into account:

coat type,
lifestyle,
environment,
actual dirtiness,
skin condition.

It is not the principle that differs, but the frequency of the procedure. The logic remains the same for all animals.

Bathing too rarely allows accumulation of:

excess oil,
dust,
dead skin cells,
bacteria.

Bathing too often – if incorrect products are used – can damage the skin barrier.

Therefore, the most important thing is not how often, but how correctly.

Stability in the bath is the foundation of safety

During bathing it is very important to ensure the dog’s physical safety.

A rubber or silicone mat must always be used in the bath.

This is not a small detail.

Without a stable base:

the dog slips,
tenses up,
compresses joints,
tenses muscles.

Tension causes stress.

Stress causes cortisol release.

Cortisol affects skin sensitivity.

When the dog stands stably – it relaxes.

A relaxed dog accepts the procedure better, and the skin remains calmer.

Care starts with safety.

Water temperature is not a small detail

The water must be warm, but not hot.

Water that is too hot:

dries out the skin,
opens pores too strongly,
encourages sebaceous gland hyperactivity.

Water that is too cold:

causes discomfort,
forces the dog to tense up,
reduces absorption of active ingredients.

Optimal – water close to body temperature.

Cosmetics preparation is half of the result

Concentrated cosmetics are never used directly.

They must be properly diluted.

The recommended ratio is 1:10, unless otherwise specified.

Why is this important?

Correct concentration allows active ingredients to work optimally.
Too strong a concentration can irritate the skin.
Too weak will not give an effect.

Cosmetics must be prepared in advance:

in warm water,
in special dilution bottles,
with clearly marked proportions.

Before starting to bathe the dog, all stages must be prepared.

This allows you to work without rushing.

Rushing always reduces the result.

The time factor: biology does not rush

Each cosmetics step must be left to act for no less than 5 minutes.

During this time:

active ingredients penetrate into the skin,
pH stabilizes,
pores open,
nourishing components begin to work.

If the product is rinsed out after one minute, it does not have time to do its job.

It becomes only "foam rinsing."

Bathing process: structured and consistent

A proper bathing scheme:

1️⃣ Thorough wetting down to the skin

2️⃣ First cleansing shampoo – for surface dirt

3️⃣ Second functional shampoo – according to coat type

4️⃣ Leave for 5 minutes

5️⃣ Thorough rinse

6️⃣ Conditioning / mask

7️⃣ Leave again

8️⃣ Complete rinse

Poorly rinsed cosmetics can become the cause of:

itching,
dandruff,
irritation,
odor.

Massage is more than touch

When bathing a dog, you do not need to "scrub." You need to massage.

Gentle massage:

improves circulation,
activates follicles,
helps active ingredients distribute evenly,
reduces tension.

Movement should be:

slow,
directional,
without nail pressure.

Bathing and the microbiome

Skin microflora is natural protection against bacterial and fungal infections.

Incorrect products or too frequent washing with aggressive cosmetics can destroy it.

Properly selected products:

maintain natural pH,
do not destroy good bacteria,
strengthen the barrier function.

This is especially important for sensitive, allergic, or dermatitis-prone dogs.

Bathing is an emotional aspect

A dog senses a person’s state very well.

If a person:

rushes,
gets nervous,
is tense,

the dog takes it on.

Therefore bathing must be:

calm,
clearly structured,
without sudden movements.

Ritual creates a sense of safety.

When does bathing become a problem?

If after bathing you notice:

stronger itching,
redness,
flaking,
increased shedding,

the problem may be:

incorrect concentration,
incorrect product,
products not rinsed out,
too high water temperature,
bathing too often.

Bathing should not worsen the condition.

Coat drying: protection, not "baking"

Many people perceive drying as the last, technical step after bathing.

In reality, it is one of the most important stages that determines:

hair structure,
skin condition,
matting risk,
shedding control,
the final aesthetic result.

Drying is not "blowing out."

It is structure formation and protection.

Why is drying so important?

Wet hair is:

more elastic but weaker,
more vulnerable,
in an open cuticle state,
prone to stretching and breaking.

If drying is done incorrectly:

hair dries out,
loses moisture balance,
begins to puff up,
becomes brittle,
static charge appears.

If done correctly:

the hair cuticle is closed,
moisture is retained,
matting decreases,
the skin remains calm.

Main drying goals

✔ Quickly remove moisture

✔ Do not damage hair structure

✔ Do not overheat the skin

✔ Reduce mechanical stress

✔ Stabilize the surface

Drying technologies

🔹 1. Ionic dryers – the modern standard

Ion technology is not marketing. It is real protection.

How do ions work?

Neutralize static charge
Reduce hair puffiness
Help retain moisture inside the hair
Close the cuticle

Result:

✔ smoother surface

✔ less breakage

✔ healthier fall

Our goal is not to "blow out" the coat.

The goal is to dry it without damage.

🔹 2. Drying cabinets

This is a particularly valuable solution for:

salons
owners with many dogs
sensitive or stressed animals

How does it work?

The dog is placed in a dryer with adjustable temperature and air circulation.

Within 15–20 minutes:

most moisture is removed
there is no mechanical rubbing
hand workload is reduced

Advantages:

✔ less stress

✔ less noise

✔ more even drying

✔ time saving

It becomes a true "new era" in care.

🔹 3. Compressors (high velocity dryer)

Used for:

blowing water out of the undercoat
during shedding
double-coated breeds

With ion function – even better.

A compressor:

lifts dead undercoat
speeds up drying
reduces the need for aggressive brushing

But very important:

❗ do not hold too close to the skin

❗ do not use maximum temperature

❗ avoid sensitive areas (eyes, ears, groin)

Correct drying sequence

1️⃣ Removing water with a towel

Do not rub
Do not press aggressively
Gently blot dry

Rubbing damages the hair surface.

2️⃣ Primary drying (compressor or cabinet)

Goal – remove 70–80% of moisture.

3️⃣ Forming drying with an ionic dryer

Medium temperature
Constant air movement
Do not hold in one place
Work along the direction of hair growth

Drying by coat type

🐩 Curly coat

Requires structural stretching
Dried with a brush
Volume forms only when fully dried

🐕 Double coat

First the compressor
Only then the brush
Moisture must not be left in the undercoat

🐕‍🦺 Long coat

Dried in layers
With slip (leave-in conditioner)
Temperature – medium

🐶 Short coat

Most important: do not overheat
Use more air than heat

Most common drying mistakes

❌ Too high temperature

❌ Drying in one spot

❌ Leaving moisture in the undercoat

❌ Drying without a protective product

❌ Too strong mechanical stretching

This causes:

breakage
puffiness
skin dryness
inflammation

Ergonomics and groomer health

Drying is one of the most physically demanding stages.

An unsuitable dryer can cause:

neck pain
shoulder tension
wrist overload